THREE VACATIONS
Desirous to spend some time in the neighborhood where Nerval hanged himself, I looked into renting a room in Montmartre. A friend of mine, a successful photographer, put me in touch with an acquaintance of hers, Étienne Carroll, who lived there but who would be vacationing during the month of August. He promptly responded to my inquiries, and after a few polite emails, a price and dates were agreed upon. Since my friend, Armelle, would also be vacationing during my stay – at a 16th century manor house inherited by her partner’s family in the countryside – I would travel directly to Étienne’s apartment on the Rue des Abbèsses, where he would be waiting for me at nine a.m. on August first.
He was there, as promised. Muddled by jetlag, I let my hand be vigorously shaken. Even at this early hour, his face – which was narrow, rodent-like, nearly chinless – was bathed in sweat. He took my valise and led me up the narrow staircase. The apartment was superb – spacious, clean, with a balcony offering a view of the rooftops descending toward the Seine. I was, however, distracted from my appreciation of the residence by the odd mannerisms of its owner. His speech was rushed, despite my demonstrated clumsiness with the language, and his gaze flitted about restlessly. He continued to sweat, even though the apartment was cool and shadowy. He rubbed his palms along his thighs, as if massaging persistent cramps. Instead of inviting me to sit in one of the two armchairs in his salon, he gestured toward the foot of his bed. He sat there beside me. Thus, while he disjointedly explained various aspects of the apartment, we sat nearly shoulder to shoulder, both facing the bedroom window; I nodded occasionally. I concluded that he had ingested some sort of amphetamine before my arrival, perhaps cocaine. Suddenly he clapped his hands once, stood up, and exclaimed, in English: “Well! Now I take my vacation!” Handing me the keys, he pumped my hand again before grabbing his own suitcase, which was waiting in the hallway, and hastily descended the stairs, shouting well wishes over his shoulder. “By the way,” I called after him, “I never asked: where are you traveling?” “To the Orient!” he replied, and scrunched up his face in what might have been a wink before further descending into the shadows of the stairwell.
““Your friend is strange,” I said to Armelle on the phone that afternoon, after a nap made turbulent by dreams in which I was crawling through damp, narrow tunnels; a storm was pelting the silos of the pastureland above me, and drowning was a danger; my father was underground somewhere. Armelle corrected me: “Étienne is not really my friend. He and Glen were roommates once, but they don’t spend much time together these days.” Glen was her partner. “I think he was on drugs this morning,” I said. “It’s possible,” she replied, laughing. I asked if wild boars could be heard grunting in the woodland thickets outside her window. She said yes.
Showered and refreshed, though still disoriented, I strolled that evening around the neighborhood, acclimating myself to the new environment. So many people in the streets! So different from the town where I lived. I tried not to gawk, even though this was not my first time in the city. After dining at a languid streetside café, I decided to take my pipe to the Sacré Coeur and absorb the sunset. Looking out over the city, I was struck by its timelessness; everything sunk suspended into night, as if the gravity of history retarded – or even reversed – the acceleration of time, which afflicted non-European cities. I felt the cool lances of the first stars caressing my neck. Descending the hill I noticed a familiar-looking figure among a group of revelers in front of me. He was small and narrow and jittery. I tried to get a look at his face while remaining undiscovered, but the evening light prevented me. I let the matter drop, afloat as I was on cool currents of rosé. Nevertheless, I would have wagered upon his identity.
I awoke well before the sun and paced the darkened apartment in a Moroccan robe, distractedly handling the exotic trinkets, throwing open the shutters to the murmured protest of roosting pigeons. The lights of arriving international flights winked in the softening sky. I grasped the damp railing of the balcony with two hands, as if to steady myself against the blows of some unimaginable grief. Two lovers in evening dress staggered loudly home along the cobblestones below me, leaning heavily on each other. Tears streaked my cheeks. There would be no getting back to sleep.
Armelle sounded groggy and less than enthusiastic about my second phone call in as many days. Perhaps I should have waited until later in the day. It was, after all, her vacation. “When did Étienne tell you he was leaving?” I asked. “Right after your arrival.” “The day of?” I pursued. “I assume so, but I’m not sure. Why does it matter?” “I swear I saw him last night by the funicular with a band of merrymakers. If it was him – and I think it was – he didn’t appear to be about to depart for vacation. And where did he tell you he was going? He told me ‘the Orient.’ How oblique. Could he be any more pretentious?” “Joseph, I’m not his confidant. I have no idea. Glen says he has a brother in Egypt. Maybe that’s where he meant.” “Is Egypt the Orient?” “Anywhere east of you is the Orient, dummy. I have to go. Photo shoot in the woods today.” We hung up.
Needing to get out, I had breakfast at a café around the corner and then set out for a day of strolling. First I found the back alley where Nerval expired. No longer Rue de la Vieille Lanterne. There was a little plaque on a wall at the head of the street. That was all. A larger shrine was devoted to a pop star who had lived nearby, and who had also offed herself. What did I expect? That he would still be there, dangling but not yet dead, that I would lift him down and cradle his distressed, bulbous brow to my chest, coaxing him back into existence? And that he would welcome my intervention? Yes. I expected that. And now what? I made my way down to the quays and some rare book dealers I knew of, hoping to find something of his I had not yet discovered. No luck.
I continued to wander, heavy in the chest. A street vendor’s cart was bursting with dazzling bouquets. Enthralled, I bought one. I dined in the Marais, the bouquet lying on the chair opposite me, smoldering fragrantly in the dusk. Climbing the hill toward the apartment, in better spirits, even whistling softly, I was struck by the radiant face of a brunette descending the opposite side of the street. I dashed across and offered her the flowers. Her mouth opened in amazement. She grabbed the bouquet from me and ran off, disappearing among the throng before I could gather myself. I did my best to laugh and shrug off the incident before the gaze of the startled onlookers.
It was dark when I returned, and so were my spirits. My train of thought was diverted, however, by something I noticed in the apartment: the toilet bowl had urine in it. I never leave a dwelling, my own or anyone’s, without flushing the toilet.
Surely I must have been responsible, I reasoned with myself, attributing my negligence to jetlag and distraction. But a kernel of doubt remained. I smoked a cigarette on the balcony and helped myself to a tumbler of Étienne’s scotch. Sleep came in fits; dreams were turbulent and saturated with panic: earthquakes in a Caribbean city, my father, a rash on his face, excoriating me in front of my family, who hung their heads in shame, me hurrying to the sea, pushing a wheelbarrow full of dead wrens…
Was I in love with Armelle? Probably, but she could not have helped me, let alone have returned my affection. It took much strength to refrain from calling her the next day. I lingered in the apartment and tried to read, waiting for the intruder. Chastising myself and unable to concentrate, I left in the afternoon and made my way to the Luxembourg gardens. A butcher from Clermont-sur-Oise shared a bench with me. I thought our conversation was proceeding amicably enough, but he begged his leave suddenly, with a troubled expression. Checking my face in a restaurant mirror, I noticed an involuntary twitching around my left eye. I couldn’t feel it, but there it was.
Someone had definitely been in the apartment that day. The bed was made more sloppily than I make beds, and there was a faint smell of coffee in the kitchen. And there were grounds in the trash. I don’t drink coffee. I didn’t sleep at all.
““What is he trying to do? Is this his idea of a joke?” I asked Armelle on the phone in the morning, my voice trembling. “So he had to come back for something, saw you weren’t there, and just went in and got it. So what?” she replied. “And then took a nap? And made some coffee?” “It is his apartment, Joseph.” “You don’t think it’s strange at all? What kind of person rents his apartment out, says he’s going on vacation, and then lingers, sneaking back into his own place? That’s crazy.” “Étienne is a friend. And you don’t know that he was sneaking.” “I thought you said he wasn’t your friend.” “He’s our friend.” Her voice was flat. “You’re on vacation, Joseph. Don’t you have a writing project to work on? Enjoy yourself. Who cares what he does?” It was useless. I hung up the phone.
I considered checking myself into a hotel, but I had already paid Étienne and my funds were limited. I knew no one else in the city. I decided to call him that afternoon.
To my astonishment, he answered. He was as high-strung as when we met. He asked me how my vacation was going. “Excellent, excellent,” I said. “I just wanted to thank you again. The place is lovely. I’ve been getting a lot done. I hope you don’t mind, I helped myself to a bit of your scotch.” “No worries!” he exclaimed, laughing. “And how about you?” I asked, “How is your vacation? Where are you?” “Egypt. It’s amazing. We toured Cairo yesterday and are just getting back from the spas…” As he continued in a rushed, exuberant voice, I went to the balcony. Here is what happened: a police car was passing on the street below, its siren spiraling into the afternoon. And as Étienne spoke, behind his voice I heard the same siren, quite loudly. Horrified, I gazed up and down the crowded sidewalks below me. I could not see him. I thanked him again and did my best to suppress my quavering voice as we said our goodbyes.
In a sweat, I raced down the stairs and out to the street. I prowled past the cafés and boulangeries, scanning every side street, inspecting the crowds of languishing citizens. The air was hot and fragrant, the chests of men, the legs of women were bared to the afternoon sun. I could not find him. Very well, then, I thought: I will wait for you. I found an empty outdoor table at a crowded brasserie slightly downhill from the apartment entrance.
I ordered a carafe of wine and at the bottom of it I discovered the desire for another one. If I was weeping slightly, no one seemed to mind, which is why I love this city. The day deepened into dusk. I ordered a meal. I pocketed the knife that came with my filet. As the streetlights flickered on and the unshaven musicians in their tattered vests and fedoras appeared as if out of the air to make their rounds of the outdoor diners, I saw what I was
waiting for, and more. Clearer minds will point to the darkness, the distance, the alcoholic fumes in my head, but I could not be more certain of what I saw: Étienne descending the street, his head thrown back in laughter, his arm around the very woman to whom I had offered the flowers two days before. They stopped before the apartment, he looked around, shook some keys from his pocket, and they entered.
I paid my bill and staggered up the street. Despite the heat, the back of my neck felt cool, pierced as it was by a particular star in the corner of the early evening sky. I let myself in and bounded up the stairs, bellowing.
The police interrupted my search for the lovers. I had stabbed the mattress multiple times, and my voice was hoarse from yelling. And yet, they had slipped away somehow.

Joe Fletcher is the author of two chapbooks of poetry: Already It Is Dusk (Brooklyn Arts Press) and Sleigh Ride (Factory Hollow Press). Other work can be found in jubilat, Octopus, Slope, Puerto Del Sol, Painted Bride Quarterly, Hoboeye, and elsewhere. He lives in Carrboro, NC.
